Sashiko tutorial 02: Asa-No-Ha

Asa-No-Ha is a design based on a grid of squares with vertical and oblique lines. The oblique lines are stitched one square down two squares across and the vertical lines are stitched two squares across.

Materials
Fabric: Cotton or semi cotton blue fabric. In sashiko, the most common fabric is indigo cotton cloth while other cloths, such as silk, semi synthetic cotton, denim, linen and wool can be also used.
Thread: Cotton white thread, DMC No 20 or No 25 (blanc).
Needles: Sashiko needles or any other long embroidery needle with a small head.
Thimble.
Scissors.
Ruler: It is better to use a quilter's ruler. This type of ruler has a grid, so its much more easy to draw parallel lines.
Tailor's chalk, French chalk or any colored pencil (e.g. yellow)

Instructions
1. In this project, we will use a single layer of cloth without backing cloth. Take a rectangular piece of fabric 12''x17'' or 30x43cm. Before start sewing press the cloth with the iron to straighten the weave.

2. Using a ruler and the tailor's chalk, measure and draw directly onto the cloth one horizontal and one vertical line in the middle of the fabric. These lines will interesect in the center of the rectangle. Another way to find the center of the fabric, is to fold it in half both in horizontal and vertical direction and press with the iron. 

3. Think about the size of the grid and the size of each square. Remember that each sashiko patterncan be made unique by varying the size of the design. In this project we will make a grid of 1/2'x1/2'. With the ruler, measure and put marks on the vertical line every 1/2 inch. 

4. Draw the horizontal parallel lines every 1/2''.

5. Repeat the last two steps and draw the vertical, parallel lines every 1/2''. The grid of squares is complete and will be used as the basis for the design of the pattern. You should also allow a frame at the perimeter of the rectangle of about 3 inches wide. 

6. Draw the first oblique line, starting from the middle of the bottom horizontal edge. The oblique line should go two squares right and one square up.

7. Draw the opposite oblique line from the bottom center to the top left. 

8. Draw all the parallel oblique lines in one direction. The distance between these lines is two squares across, and one square up.

9. Draw the oblique lines in the opposite direction.

10. At this point, you can stop drawing with the pencil and start stitching with the needle and thread. Instead of making a knot you'll begin sewing by overlaying a few stitches. We will start with a vertical line. Thread your needle with a comfortable piece of thread about 30cm long. Insert you needle about 1/2'' along the vertical line and make a few stitches toward the beginning of the line. 

11. Stitch from bottom to top, overlaying the previous stitches. Make some more stitches, putting as many stitches on your needle as you find comfortable and pull the thread through.

12. Turn the fabric upside down and cut the end of the thread as close as possible to the cloth. Threads are ended in the same way.

13. Finish sewing the first vertical line. When finish do not make any knot but overlay a few stitches. Cut the end of the thread as close as possible to the cloth.

14. When two or more lines interesect with each other, the intersection point should be left open.

15. Finish all the vertical lines.

16. Start stitching the oblique lines.

17. Remember that any intersection point should be left open

18. Finish the oblique lines in both directions. You can stitch the oblique lines independently or stitch them continuously, following a zigzag path.

19. At this point you must stop stitching. Take the ruler and the pencil and draw directly onto the fabric more oblique lines, connecting diagonally the intersection points.

20. Draw the oblique lines in the opposite direction.

21. Your sashiko should look like the following image. Start stitching the red and green zig zag lines.

22. When finish, the sashiko will look like the following image.

23. Finally stitch the small horizontal lines that connect the side corners of the diamonds together.

24. These horizontal lines are not continuous. So, before jumping into the next horizontal line, turn the fabric over, wrong side uo, and pass the needle under some stitches.

25. When finish the horizontal lines, the stars will be clear and the asanoha sashiko will be ready.

General things to consider in sashiko

• The stitches on the front are longer that those on the back. 
• When lines of stitches intersect, leave a gap at the point of intersection. 
• For sharp corners the needle must either go into the point of the corner or come out from it.
• Depending on the design the order of sewing varies but basically it is done in the order horizontal, vertical, diagonal, curved lines.